Kebabeesh, New Line, Greengates

And over the 27 years they have certainly perfected the art.

The menu offers an imaginative and extensive selection of dishes from the Lahore region of Pakistan, widely known as the cultural centre of the country. It includes a number of the chef's own special creations.

The description of all the dishes is comprehensive so it's easy to select a dish to tease your taste buds.

When my dad and I arrived at the restaurant it was more than half full - always a good sign.

It has an extension built on at the front, a bit like a conservatory and it's very airy, a theme repeated throughout the restaurant. The dcor is fresh and very appealing and soft Indian music is piped throughout.

The welcome was warm and we were asked where we would like to sit rather than being directed to a table.

After ordering white wine, a Long Row Sauvignon blanc from Australia, we sat back on the rather elegant and interestingly-designed chairs and contemplated the menu.

The wine was a good choice, very well-chilled and reasonably priced - no ice bucket but that did not matter, it remained cold until we finished it.

A window at the rear of the restaurant allows you to watch the chefs' labours.

I really like this idea because it's a real conversation piece and it shows there is nothing to hide in this kitchen.

Gleaming utensils adorn the back wall of the kitchen area. The chefs toil over huge cookers but despite being under pressure, one of them even found time to give me a smile and a wave.

Dad ordered mushroom pakora for his starter and I had a poppadom with a choice of three pickles.

Six pakoras, mushrooms coated in a light, crispy batter then deep-fried, were served with a generous garnish of freshly-prepared salad and lemon to squeeze over the top.

Dad's a big fan of mushrooms and thoroughly enjoyed it.

The atmosphere at the restaurant is lively and the waiting staff are constantly in the restaurant area making sure all their customers' needs are met.

There was a nicely-timed delay between dad having his starter and our main dishes being served.

For his main course he chose a king prawn biryani.

The prawns were succulent and there were plenty of them served with a medium hot sauce to cover the rice mixed with vegetables.

I had chosen my main course, Chicken Shaslich, within two minutes of being seated at the table as I saw it delivered to a table nearby. It looked so delicious I had to try it.

The dish is diced chicken marinated with selected herbs and spices in a yoghurt sauce, then barbecued with peppers, mushrooms and onions served on a sizzler with fried onions.

It was accompanied by a sesame naan, vegetable rice and a masala sauce.

It was a huge dish so you need a hearty appetite, but it was very different to anything I have ordered before and I will definitely be going back to try it again. It was delicious.

We finished off the fabulous meal with ice creams and coffee.

Another very good reason to become a frequent diner at the restaurant, apart from the excellent service and beautiful food, is that once a year the owners thank their regulars for their custom by taking them on a day trip. Last year it was to York races and this year it was to the Test cricket at Headingley.

A nice gesture and yet another indication of the owners' commitment to treating their customers royally.

WHAT WE ATE: Starters, popadom and pickle tray - 40p, mushroom pakora - £2.10. Main course, chicken shaslich - £9.95, king prawn biryani - £7.95. Dessert, ice creams - £2.50 each. Drinks, Long Row Sauvignon Blanc - £11.95. Total cost £41.25.

VERDICT: Food - four stars, service - four stars, atmosphere - four stars, value for money - four stars.

Parking: There is ample on-road parking at the front of the restaurant.

• Our writers comment on what they find during a single visit. They accept standards vary from day to day. In the interest of fairness, they do not reveal their identities, and they pay for their meals in full. Each venue is judged against other restaurants of a similar type.