Harewood

It didn't turn out quite like that, unfortunately, and it was 10.45am before we locked up the car in Church Lane, near the Harewood Social Club, and set off alongside the busy Leeds road to pass the entrance to the estate and seek out the narrow, wooden gate that would admit us to this fine area of woodland and country park. Still, the sun had yet to come out and the air was refreshingly cool.

Until relatively recently there was no way you could complete a circuit of the estate without walking next to the road. Now, though, a permissive footpath has been created through the woodland just over the wall from it - an area known, fittingly enough, as Wall Side Plantation.

And a very pleasant footpath it is, too: broad and straight after the initial twists, passing between mature trees and attractive shrubs. Now they'll be heading towards their autumn glory, Then, though, they were in their summer finery.

As we strode along we could hear not-so-distant barking. A dog show was taking place that weekend in marquees elsewhere on the estate. Maybe the several dog-walkers we passed going in the opposite direction along this stretch of the walk were heading for it.

Eventually we emerged from the wood near a gatehouse and turned to follow the bridleway through parkland. We were on a right-of-way now, with fine views across the pastureland to our right of Harewood House on the distant hillside.

We walked along easily in the slowly-warming air, past flocks of grazing sheep, as the track dropped down and rejoined woodland. The sun had come out by now but the shade on this next stretch of the outing protected us from it. We crossed the attractive New Bridge (which it might have been once) and were guided by the footpath signs along the route as it wound through the trees.

Then came a moment of confusion at a junction, with the Harewood lake just visible through the trees, where none of three arrows on a signpost seemed to point in the direction in which, according to the map, we needed to go.

We wandered about a bit, exploring the different options, and chanced upon a surprise: the village of Emmerdale which was specially built on the Harewood estate for the popular TV soap after filming moved from Esholt.

I'd always wondered just where it was. Now we knew, but we weren't able to explore. It was tucked away in a field in a valley and protected by a gate bearing a "PRIVATE" sign. In fact there were lots of such signs all along this route, at the start of all the side paths, letting you know just where you might not roam. Fair enough. Uncomplaining adherence to the right of way is a fair swap for the permissive footpath.

A close study of the map showed us the way from here whatever the signpost might or might not indicate. A path zigzagged down to pass Carr House Farm and then continued between a wood and pastureland to meet a tall, brick wall which was clearly once part of a formal garden. Across the road, in a large field, dozens of black sheep bleated loudly.

The track continued up the hill then dropped down to the derelict Home Farm before climbing to pass Harewood Yard, which has been newly converted into offices in a very desirable location.

Before long we were back in parkland with grazing deer and standing to admire the glorious view over the broad spread of patchwork fields of lower Wharfedale towards distant Almscliff Crag. before turning to follow the last leg of the walk back along Church Lane to the start.

The sun was now cracking the flags again. The beer garden of the Harewood Arms beckoned, and we responded.

Step by Step

1. From Church Lane, walk to main road (Harrogate Road) and turn right. Walk past main entrance of Harewood estate and continue to a point where, just opposite school entrance across road, there's a gate in wall on right leading to permissive footpath. Follow it for a mile or so until it emerges from wood via a gate. Walk on briefly past gatehouse on left to next gate.
2. Through this, turn right and go through another gate to follow bridleway through parkland. Continue through another gate at bottom of hill into trees. Cross New Bridge and swing left with path, and then right. Keep ahead to a point where, with lake just visible through trees on right, you come to a signpost with three arms on it and fork ahead.
3. Detour left here briefly to look at location of Emmerdale then return to junction and look at fork. One broad track rises gently. Another, narrower, stony path forks right-ish, descending. Go down this, turning sharp right at fork and following this broader track as it swung round to gate at side of Carr House Farm.
4. Through this gate keep ahead with wood on the left to another gate, then continue uphill with a tall brick wall on right. Where track descends, take branch to left of derelict farm, crossing stream and climbing to another gate. Continue past Harewood Yard converted offices to gate into parkland (maybe with deer). Follow road ahead to junction with signpost. Go first right, climbing, and continue along this to emerge at end of Church Lane.

Fact File

• Set-off point: main entrance to Harewood House.
• Time for 5-mile walk: two hours or so.
• Going: easy.
• Map: OS Explorer 297 or Pathfinder 672.
• Parking: limited roadside space in Church Lane, Harewood (off main road, with furniture shop on corner), bearing in mind residents' rights. Or park by roadside at end of Harewood Avenue, opposite main gates.
• Refreshments: Harewood Arms, just across the road.
• Toilets: none along the route.