Sometimes two is better than one.
Where would Rolls be without Royce? Could there be a Laurel without Hardy? And who would McCartney be without Lennon?
The same is often true in the world of wine. It’s almost as if some grape varietals were made for each other, the sum of their parts being greater.
The French describe these grapes as complémentaire, which I think you will agree is not too hard to translate.
Famous couplings include the Bordeaux red blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot, where the muscular cabernet is tempered by the softer, more feminine, charms of the merlot.
Semillon is often partnered with sauvignon blanc, to make Bordeaux white wines. The two complementary varietals can gain depth and complexity when blended in the lusciously sweet wines of Sauternes and Barsac, and in the dry white style too.
This week’s picks are blends of two grapes, starting with an impressive Bordeaux blanc from the Graves region, Château Tour Léognan 2008 which can be found at Waitrose. Rich, balanced and complex, with pronounced mineral notes and flavours of satsuma orange, lemon and gooseberry, this wine is the business with grilled fish.
Of course Bordeaux blends are not exclusive to the region itself, there are plenty of imitators. Flinders Chase Cabernet Merlot 2008 is from the relatively cool Adelaide Hills growing region of Oz. Velvety textured, with a fine tannic backbone and flavours of cherry, cassis, plums and chocolate, it is more approachable than many of its Bordeaux counterparts.
A combo from the northern Rhône is the chardonnay and viognier blend. This has become an increasingly popular option for winemakers elsewhere, although in some cases this is maybe a way of making the unfashionable chardonnay grape more appealing. Whatever, the tropical fruit of the chardonnay marries wonderfully with the rich, perfumed character of the viognier.
Paul Mas Vignes de Nicole 2009, from the Languedoc, is an excellent example.
It has had some contact with oak but the influence is very subtle, resulting in a rich and complex wine, with a creamy texture, and long flavours of pineapple, apricot, honey and perfume.
- Château Tour Léognan 2008, Pessac-Léognan, £11.86, at Waitrose 18/20.
- Flinders Chase Cabernet Merlot 2008, Adelaide Hills, £8.99, from Virgin Wines virginwines.co.uk 18/20.
- Paul Mas Vignes de Nicole 2009, £9.99, at Majestic 18/20.
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