I had promised myself not to write about the “B” word ever again.

It’s not that I don’t enjoy the food at a B party, I have been to a couple of B’s already this summer and thoroughly enjoyed myself, but there are two very good reasons why I planned to avoid the wines-to-have-with-food-at-a-B theme.

Firstly, whenever I make such recommendations in Tipping’s Tipples it seems the weather takes a turn for the worse and everyone has to eat inside, instead of having a B in the garden.

Secondly, there are only a few, very bold, reds that can cope with the subtle flavours of the carbonised burgers which represent the peak of my culinary capabilities.

However, the grub at the Bs I’ve been to this year has been of a much higher standard than my own burnt offerings. So much so, that I have revised my thinking on B wines.

Properly cooked, B food doesn’t have to be paired with fruit-bomb reds, you can chose something with more class.

Try these three wines next time it is sunny enough to light the barbecue (there, I’ve written it now) – but only if the chef is good.

An aperitif wine is a good idea when waiting for the charcoal to get going, Hugel Tradition Muscat 2008 from Alsace fits the bill perfectly and it will also pair with salads and nibbles.

Dry, delicate, fragrant and refreshing, with surprisingly long, grapy flavours, it is not too heavy on alcohol either.

I would stop short of opening a bottle from your favourite Bordeaux first growth Château to go with barbecued lamb kebabs, but the region does provide cheaper alternatives.

Try Château Pey La Tour 2008, which is an eminently drinkable, modern tasting, merlot-driven wine with just enough tannin to give some structure.

It delivers raspberries, plums and dark chocolate at a reasonable price.

Or head to Spain and Mas de Subira 2006, which is a muscular, steak-friendly red from the Priorat wine region in Catalonia.

A blend of grenache, carignan and cabernet sauvignon, it oozes bramble and blackcurrant fruit with dark roasted coffee, pronounced liquorice flavours and spice.

  • Hugel Tradition Muscat 2008, Alsace, £10.95 from The Wine Society 18/20.
  • Château Pey La Tour 2008, Bordeaux, £6.99 at Tesco 17/20.
  • Mas de Subira 2006, Priorat, £7.99 each when you buy two at Majestic 16/20.