IT'S a tough business, being surrounded by all these beautiful women," said Paul Costelloe.

I was forced to agree as another tall, stunning blonde brushed past us preparing for the Ilkley store's fashion show.

This very down-to-earth designer did not fit my stereotype of a 'luvvie-style' eccentric oddball.

Since the Paul Costelloe house was established in 1979 it has grown into a multi-million pound concern.

Dublin-born Mr Costelloe has come a long way since he started out in the fashion business more than 25 years ago.

His early years were spent at Dublin's Blackrock College before signing up with his local design college.

An apprenticeship in Paris

followed and he has spent lengthy periods in the other great fashion capitals of the world - London, New York and Milan (and now Ilkley of course).

His list of clients have included the late Diana Princess of Wales and Prince Edward's girlfriend, Sophie Rhys-Jones.

Despite enjoying worldwide success it seems Mr Costelloe is not one of the 'in-crowd.' "I'm no prima donna, although you do meet them in this business. I'm not one of the first people on a party invite list. I guess I'm not seen as one of the beautiful

people."

The designer makes it clear he is first and foremost a businessman - a very successful one at that.

"I design clothes. I'm not interested in bull****. There is so much hype in this industry. It is all about packaging your product. I think you have a lot of gullible journalists out there who pounce on one aspect. Yes, a designer will produce one outrageous outfit which reveals a girl's breasts, but they will have produced a lot of other designs which retailers will snap up," he said.

Why did he enter the industry in the first place. "Limited talent and limited ability for anything else I suppose," he joked.

"I really love it. It has given me the opportunity to meet lots of people and to travel to some

amazing places. Today Ilkley, tomorrow London and maybe Milan next week," he said.

In such a cutthroat industry what keeps the Costelloe name ahead of other designers? "You have to maintain your own handwriting, that's very important. You must make your mark. I am a survivor."

While admiring and respecting other designers, Mr Costelloe believes fashion should be about fantasy, about imagination.

"If you see a pretty girl walking down the catwalk in a dress which leaves nothing to the

imagination then that destroys the fantasy element. I think clothes should express femininity but not be something you'd choose at an Ann Summers party," he said.

The likes of Kate Moss, Naiomi Campbell and Claudia Schiffer earn huge sums parading designer clothes. A criticism levelled at designers is they are not creating clothes for 'real' people.

"When you set out to design something, I think you have to design it for a 'dream woman figure.' There's nothing wrong with that. In most cases you really don't have to make any drastic changes to cater for the ordinary person - your Mrs Smith. I can tell you, there a lot of Mrs Smiths out there who have very good figures," he said.

Mr Costelloe is very happy that his designs sell but chuckles at the question of 'off-days.'

"Do I ever have days when I screw up what I've done and start again? How many days in a year, 365, oh I should think at least 360 of those," he joked.

Mr Costelloe designs for men and women. English men have

suffered an image problem with regard to fashion. Some feel we lack the style of the Italians or the French.

"I don't think that is the case. I think what English men need to work on is expressing themselves more about what their wives are wearing."

"English women can go in to a shop and be totally flustered about what they buy, wondering what their husband will say. Men need to offer some encouragement, offer some comfort. If the woman looks wonderful then say so," he said.

"I think English people are able to go out and buy different items, to match items and look fashionable."

"You can go out for a night in Leeds or Newcastle and see just as much fashion on display as you would see in Paris or Milan," he said. The designer's creativity has been recognised by the International Linen Council who have rewarded him with the

prestigious Fil D'Or Award on three occasions.

"I am great believer in the importance of cloth. People in this part of the world can relate to that, this being 'cloth' country," he said.

Designing clothes is not the only important thing in Mr Costelloe's life.

He will head to Italy for some peace and quiet while working on a new collection but the Irishman spends much of his time between London and his young family in Dublin.

"My family is very important and very forthright in their opinions. If they don't like something I have designed then they will let me know," he said.

While all around him are busy trying to organise the Clairemont fashion show, far from getting involved, Mr Costelloe is by far the most laid back person in the shop - far more concerned that the photographer and myself should have a cup of coffee.

"I don't tend to get nervous before shows - well, only slightly," he said.

What do young designers have to do to break through in the

industry?

"Again, I would say it is very important to have your own 'handwriting' your own style. Build up your experience by

working for a 'name' - a name that seems to produce the kind of designs and clothes you believe in. When looking at somebody's CV the first thing I will look for is where the person has gained their experience."

While delighted his designs sell in Ilkley his flagship store can be found in the heart of London's Knightsbridge. A browse through the fashion section at Harrods would also yield some Costelloe designs.

Finally, we come to the question of what's in and what's not.

What should Mr and Mrs Wharfedale be wearing to look fashionable (apart from the Paul Costelloe label of course)?

"Black," comes the reply. You can't go wrong with black."

When the show is finally over Clairemont manager and buyer Karen Palm can stop for a breather.

She said: "It's been a really fantastic day. I think the secret of Paul's success is he designs something for everyone. It is quality, his styling and his use of fabrics is second to none.

Converted for the new archive on 30 June 2000. Some images and formatting may have been lost in the conversion.