Winter's tale

With a clientele like Hollywood superstar Harrison Ford and cult Sixties singer Bob Dylan, who could The Alveston Manor in Stratford expect next?

T&A features editor Jan Brierley and her partner!

Somehow I don't think they were quite as impressed with me as they were with Harrison. Can't think why.

The Alveston Manor in the heart of Stratford makes an ideal base from which to explore the old market town which is mentioned in historical records as early as 691.

As well as such prestigious guests as Harrison, Bob and myself the Alveston Manor's other claim to fame is alfresco performances of Shakespeare in the grounds under an old cedar tree. The first performance of Midsummer Night's Dream is said to have been performed under the ancient tree.

It evokes idyllic images of thespians in sumptuous Elizabethan garb performing the Bard's plays under the stars on a balmy summer night.

Unfortunately this breathtaking prospect is not conducive in the middle of winter and members of the Royal Shakespeare company were understandably loath to venture outdoors into the crisp night air.

Instead Malcolm and I ventured indoors into the Swan theatre to a darkly dramatic but dynamic version of Macbeth.

Anthony Shear has so much impact in the lead role he gives the Scottish play a lasting resonance.

Missing an alfresco performance of Shakespeare apart, winter is probably the best time to spend a weekend in Stratford.

You'll miss all those American tourists billing and cooing outside Anne Hathaway's cottage, "Gee Honeee, ain't that cute!" and flocks of Japanese tourists taking copious photographs outside the famous thatched farmhouse while blocking your view.

That's not to descend into xenophobia but there's a lot to be said for the space to enjoy the Bard's birthplace without rubbing shoulders too closely with your fellow tourists.

Having sampled the joys of Stratford many times I was happy to leave the usual tourist trail - Mary Arden's House, the birthplace, Nash's house, Stratford almhouses etc - to the other travellers.

Stratford, I discovered long ago, is a town with treasures around the corner. You only need to stroll along the streets to be transported back to Tudor times. The timbered Tudor buildings are a feast for the senses. I've never seen so many oak-beamed pubs and cottages. In fact, we even had an oak beam in our bathroom at The Alveston Manor. It's no wonder Americans jealously drool over our rich ancestry.

The Bard's presence is everywhere - Stratford has cashed in on its famous son but there is little evidence of tatty souvenir shops and, though tourists swarm in the summer, it never spoils Stratford's unique character and charm.

When you've stopped strolling and drinking in the atmosphere there's always the town's old hostelries to retreat into. These are architectural gems in their own right with oak beams, roaring fires and plenty of character.

A favourable word must be said for Stratford's top-class restaurants. The nightly menu at The Alveston Manor was delicious but one of the finest gourmet evenings I've ever spent was at The Shakespeare in its Garrick restaurant.

On arrival at this black and white Tudor-fronted hotel, we were warmly welcomed in the reception area where the old stone floor remains and ushered into the bar area. There we sank into easy chairs while mulling over the menu. It was tough but someone had to do it!

The food, wine, atmosphere and service were faultless. It was a night to linger over and savour, one that will live in the memory for many years to come. Stratford at its finest.

But there are simpler, cheaper pleasures in the home of the Bard. A gentle walk along the river Avon was just what the doctor ordered the morning after the gastronomic feast, a perfect antidote to imbibing too many after-dinner brandies beside a roaring fire.

Although Stratford is an historic town brimming with culture and tradition, there is plenty of Nature to admire.

The only time we did venture on to the tourist trail was to Holy Trinity Parish Church but we took more delight in seeing dozens of squirrels playing in the churchyard than Shakespeare's tombstone.

The cross-shaped building dates back to the early 13th century. An avenue of lime trees, twelve on the left for the biblical tribes of Israel, and eleven to the right for the faithful apostles, lead to the church's north door.

After that burst of Nature and sight-seeing, we reverted back to type - by enjoying a final drink in a local hostelry.

This time we spurned the old Tudor pubs for the 21th century variety. Cox's Yard is unashamedly modern but boasts award-winning beers from the Charles Wells family brewery dating back to 1876.

The pub forms part of an interactive centre and is set by the picturesque river Avon. Despite its modern architecture and the competition of all those ancient oak beams in pubs nearby the atmosphere is convivial and staff hospitable.

And so it was farewell to Stratford and the Bard until the next time.

Converted for the new archive on 30 June 2000. Some images and formatting may have been lost in the conversion.