For gourmets with a sense of history, there can be few places in the whole of the district which match The Priest's House at Barden Tower, near Skipton.

The restaurant is in the medieval building opposite the romantic ruin of Barden Tower, once a favourite spot of Lady Anne Clifford, the 17th century matriarch of Skipton Castle.

The entrance is across the garden and up an ancient flight of stone steps and through a doorway that even I - a 5ft 8in squirt - had to duck under.

Below is the chapel where Cliffords worshipped for hundreds of years.

Diners enter into a small bar area with settles round an open stone fire and flagged floor. There is no draught beer, but the bottled Black Sheep is wonderful.

Eating is through a stone doorway and into the timber-floored dining area, which seats about 25 people, surrounded by the ancient walls, two big fireplaces and a magnificent leaded window giving a panoramic view over the garden and out into one of the most picturesque locations in Upper Wharfedale.

And the ambience is matched by the food that comes to the table.

I had a steak and pigeon pie with mustard mashed potatoes that was so rich and succulent, I could have eaten it again, despite the generous portion.

I followed it up with sticky toffee pudding and custard with a deep vanilla flavour.

My wife Krystina had English ham with madeira gravy and pease pudding, followed by Yorkshire curd tart and ice cream. The verdict - delicious. We shared garlic potatoes and a salad with mint dressing.

The menu was not extensive but varied enough to meet broad tastes and you were invited to choose either the main course and pudding for £12.95 or a starter and pudding for £10.50. Main course ranged from between £6.95 to £7.25.

The only drawback is the opening hours - the restaurant is not open in the evenings and has limited opening between March and December. There is a small but exquisite banqueting hall which can be hired.

Clive White

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