“THERE it stands on a country lane on the moors.” So writes Rev John Midgley of Pepper Hill Unitarian Chapel, which is understood to be the highest Unitarian Chapel in the country, at 1,005 ft above sea level between Shelf and Queensbury. The congregation has endured ups and downs over the years, and it was even re-built in 1936 after it collapsed during a storm. Now, the Chapel is celebrating its history through a new book chronicling its story.

The congregation dates back to 1858, when a chartist, carpet weaver, lecturer and Unitarian Sunday School teacher named Alexander Stradling (1820-1905), began to visit the area. Stradling apparently found the people of Pepper Hill playing at “pigeon flying, pitch and toss, dog racing” on a Sunday but convinced them to start a ‘Mutual Improvement Society’ which was the basis of the congregation.

He was born in the small village of Culmstock in Devon but came to Yorkshire to find work in the textile industry. This remarkable man eventually became a Unitarian minister but is forgotten today.

The lives of some of the early working-class members were transformed through their involvement with the life of the Chapel. Joseph Hobson Jagger (1830-1892), who allegedly ‘Broke the Bank at Monte Carlo’, had connections with Pepper Hill. He was born close to the Chapel and at least two of his sisters were amongst the earliest members.

The interior of the chapel The interior of the chapel (Image: Ben Stables)

The Chapel survived the First World War with no members lost, but lost one in the Second, and had a conscientious objector who was sent to jail.

On the evening of November 21, 1935, a passing motorist noticed that the Chapel had collapsed in ruins during a gale. Only the gable ends and vestry were left standing. Services continued even in the cramped vestry; the first one being taken by Rev Ada Tonkin (1891-1981), who was the first fully ordained female Unitarian minister in Yorkshire.

A fortnight after the collapse, a wedding even took place. Photographs of the wedding group were taken amongst the fallen masonry of the ruined Chapel!

The congregation worked hard to re-build the Chapel, and it re-opened within twelve months on September 19, 1936.

Ten new art-deco ‘Rising Sun’ windows were purchased from George Lazenby, Leaded Light Contractor of Manningham Lane and installed. Today, they are a much loved feature of the Chapel building.

One of the Art Deco windows in the chapelOne of the Art Deco windows in the chapel (Image: Ben Stables)

Strong links have been maintained with the Unitarian congregations in Bradford. John Pickles (c.1825-1905) of Bradford acted as lay leader of the Chapel from 1872 to 1895.

The Rev William Rosling (1853-1914) caused his Congregational Church in West Bowling to split due to his liberal theology, but brought most of his congregation with him to form Broadway Avenue Unitarian Church in 1906.

Rev William Rosling was minister of Pepper Hill Chapel Rev William Rosling was minister of Pepper Hill Chapel (Image: Ben Stables)

He took on an extra role as minister of Pepper Hill too. Another Bradford minister, the Rev A. Ben Downing (1915-1980), who was an early campaigner for assisted dying, also agreed to take on Pepper Hill in addition to the Russell Street Unitarian Church in Bradford.

In 1995, Pepper Hill merged with the older Northgate End Unitarian Chapel in Halifax. Nowadays, it is the only place of worship in the village to have a license to perform same-sex wedding ceremonies.

The chapel pictured in 2021The chapel pictured in 2021 (Image: Ben Stables)

Over the years, the congregation has enjoyed the ministry of Rev Ben Downing, Rev Bruce Findlow, Rev Jeffrey Bowes, Rev Celia Midgley, Rev John Midgley, and others.

Rev John Midgley writes that “Unitarianism in the 19th century was a liberal branch of Christianity which has lent itself to open-minded inquiry rather than set doctrines.

There is a spirit of freedom of thought which leads to questioning. Adherents are not required to subscribe to any articles of faith, but bring a willingness to share varied beliefs and religious principles and a tolerance of differences.”

* The congregation has now published a book entitled From Pigeon Flying to Intellectual Liberty: The History of Pepper Hill Unitarian Chapel in Shelf, West Yorkshire, detailing its history at just under 100 pages and richly illustrated in full colour.

Copies are available for £6 either from the Chapel or the author, by emailing benstables@hotmail.co.uk. Postage is £2.50.

The book will be officially launched during the Heritage Open Days weekend, on September 14 and 15. Refreshments are promised on the day!