Travel: Hot springs and mythical legends in Iceland

It is just below the Arctic circle - so you don’t quite get the midnight sun, unless you travel to a small island off its north coast. Though considered a European county, its nearest landmass is actually Greenland. Nine times bigger than Yorkshire, Iceland has a population not much greater than Bradford’s.

Most Icelanders live in the south-west corner round the capital Reykjavik. A circular coastal road connects the few small settlements on its perimeter; but the interior is effectively uninhabitable, and largely inaccessible in winter.

View over Reykjavik and the northern hills (Image: John Waller)

Reykjavik is of necessity as compact as an English county town. Neat, well-kept multi-coloured houses; with shops, markets, restaurants and museums, including a huge relief map of Iceland. Plus a large harbour, and an impressive modern cathedral: the Hallgrimskirkja, which dominates the city.

Built over 40 years between 1945 and 1987, its design was not without controversy. But its easily-accessible viewing platform offers magnificent views over the city, its immediate surroundings, and across the water to impressive mountains further north.

Hallgrimskirkja dominates the Reykjavik skyline (Image: John Waller)

Iceland is best known for its volcanic eruptions, geysers and hot springs; and these are the main draw for visitors.

Tourism is now more important even than fishing to the Icelandic economy, and there are well-organised day-trips to sights such as the three-tier waterfalls at Gullfoss, and the Strokka Geysir which erupts without fail every 6-10 minutes.

The three-stage Gullfoss waterfalls (Image: John Waller)

In Pingvelir National Park there’s the mystical, ethereal site of the world’s first parliament (Althing) dating from 930AD; under an imposing cliff caused by tectonic movements. At various points such fissures can widen by 2cm per year.

Extended stops at these sites give you time to wander into the treeless, almost desolate countryside; and even look across to the glaciers further inland. In summer, longer trips in high-clearance SUVs can take you further into the rugged interior: which would be well worth doing if you had the time.

During such trips your driver/guide will explain various Icelandic idiosyncrasies: such as the Elves. You can’t see them, but they are everywhere, apparently: living parallel lives in little invisible homes, particularly amongst rocks and beside cliffs (such as at Pingvellir). Few Icelanders will deny their existence; and will cite instances where elves have caused real problems should anyone try to build a road through one of their invisible settlements; causing work to be abandoned. Some humans build little elf-homes to make them feel welcome. There are invisible trolls as well: who behave like mischievous schoolboys.

You’ll also learn about Icelandic flora and fauna. Very little grows away from the shore: sheep can graze, but no major crops such as wheat. Icelandic horses are a special breed: small, but sturdy and long-lived; which suits both terrain and climate. Non-Icelandic horses are prohibited, and any Icelandic horse travelling abroad cannot return; to protect the integrity and health of the breed. And of course, there are plenty of fish.

And you can learn how Icelandic names are constructed. They don’t have surnames that carry down through the generations. If I were Icelandic, I’d be John Thomasson; and my son would be Matthew Johnsson. Girls have -dottir rather than -sson; after either parent’s given name, as well as their own. You may remember Vigdis Finnbogadottir, the first female to be democratically elected as a President (1980) anywhere in the world.

Everywhere you go in Iceland, you will come across hot springs, where often-boiling water just surges out of the ground. Sometimes the whole countryside seems to be steaming. You can experience this for yourself in one of several swimming areas, where the water is naturally warm enough to swim comfortably all year round. The largest (and nearest to Reykjavik; so also the most expensive) is the Blue Lagoon. Almost a must. Though as I write this (Feb 2024), a lava eruption is preventing travel between Reykjavik and the Blue Lagoon

Right next to it is a huge power-plant, feeding off the same source. Iceland is more than entirely self-sufficient in hydroelectricity and hot water, and specialises in manufacturing items requiring a considerable amount of power.

There are plenty of places to eat in Reykjavik. Fish, especially cod, is ubiquitous, as is lamb. Also both horse and minke whale meat; which may not be palatable to everyone. But it’s what Iceland has; so why shouldn’t the locals eat it? There’s also the local Lava Bread: made with rye, but looking very much like cooled lava. Most food is imported, and it’s easy to find standard European dishes. Food, like most things in Iceland (especially alcohol) is not particularly cheap. But this certainly should not put you off visiting this intriguing and distinctive country. You won’t regret it.