Travel: Lativa, Lithuania and Estonia

It is sometimes tempting to lump the three Baltic states into a single entity, as if they were a homogenous group. But actually they are each quite distinctive. Each country has its own unique language, its own history prior to the 20th century, and its own culture and national characteristics. Only since 1991 have these been allowed to flourish again.

Their histories during the last century are, however, similar. Each gained independence after WW1, but this was followed by brutal invasions and occupations as WW2 broke out: by the Soviet Union in 1940, the Nazis in 1942; and then by the Soviets again from 1945 until 1991. All three countries have (sometimes very graphic) museums documenting these foreign occupations.

Riga old town (Image: Submitted)

During the WW2 and subsequently, all three experienced massive population changes: as the Nazis liquidated their significant Jewish populations; and then the Soviets deported intellectuals and dissenters to Siberia, to be replaced by ethnic Russians. All three enthusiastically joined the EU as soon as they were able. All have well-preserved (though very different) ‘old towns’ where most visitors congregate.

Estonia is the northernmost of the three: population approximately one million, capital Tallinn, with the most distinctive old town, still partially walled and with plenty of towers and turrets. It includes St Olaf’s church: in the 16th century the tallest structure in Europe. Its language is related to Finnish; and Estonia’s outlook is Nordic; with quick and easy ferry links with Helsinki. It is probably the most digitised country in the world, with wifi access even in the deepest forests (of which there are many). It is also one of the least religious countries in the world.

One of the gates to the walled old town in Tallinn (Image: Submitted)

While Tallinn is the major attraction, the university city of Tartu to the south is well worth a visit. Or you could visit Narva, separated from Russia by just a narrow river; and now mostly populated by ethnic Russians. It’s actually closer to St Petersburg than Tallinn.

Further south is Latvia: population around three million, capital Riga, and with an old town well-supplied with bars and restaurants from its popularity as a destination for western stagand hen parties.

While not as well-preserved as Tallinn, it has a relaxed character of its own, stretching from the wide Daugava River to the ancient Powder Tower and adjacent row of well-preserved officers’ barracks. Opposite the cannon you’ll find the iconic Taverna, offering traditional Latvian food and beer.

The Latvian towns of Cesis and Sigulda are well within bus and train reach, offering castles and forest walks amongst just about the only hilly area in the Baltics. You may even come across the tragic character of the Rose of Turaida castle. Or you can visit the beach resort of Jurmela - though even in summer, the Baltic Sea is very cold; and often windy.

The southernmost Baltic state is Lithuania: population about five million, capital Vilnius. Here, the old town is less obvious. Rather than being a distinct area, older buildings meld seamlessly with newer ones; giving an attractive feel to the whole city. A walk from the Gates of Dawn (Ausros Vartai) with its chapel built into the arch over the road, down to the Castle Tower, the Cathedral and the Royal Palace (now an excellent museum) will take in most of it.

Cesis Castle, Latvia (Image: Submitted)

Looking down on the Royal Palace from the castle tower, Vilnius (Image: Submitted)

And do visit Uzipis; Vilnius’s artistic quarter, which declared independence from Lithuania some years ago. As well as arty exhibitions, it has Snekutis, one of the most peculiar bars imaginable. With luck, they’ll serve you a traditional Lithuanian dumpling dish known as cepelinai, because of its shape.

Snekutis bar in 'independent' Uzipis, Vilnius (Image: Submitted)

Further afield you could get a bus or train to Trakai; a lake-based castle settlement with a long history. Or pay homage to the almost 100,000 Jews who were murdered by the Nazis in woods near Paneriai.

Of all the Balkan states, Lithuania has the grandest history; once having an empire that stretched right down to the Black Sea. Lithuania’s main orientation today is towards Poland, with which it has an extensive border. It is also one of the most religious countries in the world; in stark contrast to Estonia barely 200 miles away.

Anyone wanting to visit more than one of these fascinating countries can use the excellent LuxBus service between the three capitals (each about four hours apart).

But one caveat. My multiple visits to the Baltics, on which this article is based, all took place between 2010 and 2016. Some things may have changed since. All three countries share borders with Russia and/or Belarus; and the situation now might be less relaxed.

But for the same reasons, these three small countries need our support more than ever - and that includes our tourism.