THE lake, shimmering in the spring sunshine, was the kind of lake you'd expect to see Mr Darcy emerging from in a wet shirt.

Wandering around Chatsworth House felt like being in a period drama. You could imagine a housemaid appearing in a doorway, or a butler looking on disapprovingly as tourists shuffle past.

One of Britain's great country houses, Chatsworth is home to the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire and has been passed down through five centuries of the Cavendish family. The funeral of Deborah, Dowager Duchess of Devonshire, last of the Mitford sisters, took place on the estate last year.

Around 30 of the 126 rooms are open to visitors. Filled with exquisite furniture and artworks, they include the Painted Hall, regal State Rooms, and a series of grand bedrooms.

Along the Oak Staircase, topped by a glass dome, at the northern end of the Painted Hall hang portraits of the first 11 Dukes and some family members. Chatsworth has one of Europe's most significant art collections, encompassing Old Masters, Ancient Egyptian artefacts and neoclassical sculptures.

Contemporary art has a presence too, and we encountered various quirky seats dotted about the house, comprising the Make Yourself Comfortable exhibition of contemporary furniture designers. Unlike the historic seating, which has prickly teasels placed on it, visitors are allowed to sit on the modern chairs, which include a pair of neon-lit "thrones" and a curious upside-down armchair.

A visit to Chatsworth isn't complete without a walk around the glorious gardens, covering 105 acres and blending features from various centuries. Sitting in the Derwent valley, the garden is set against the surrounding 1,000-acre park and woodland beyond.

The house and garden were first constructed by Sir William Cavendish and Bess of Hardwick in 1555. Baroque gardens featured parterres cut into slopes above the house, with fountains, garden buildings and classical sculptures. A surviving feature is The Cascade, a set of stone steps with water flowing over them from fountains at the top. Each step is cut differently and has a different sound when water runs over them. Unfortunately the water wasn't flowing during our visit - it was switched off due to maintenance work.

I liked the Willow Tree Fountain, an imitation tree squirting water from its branches. Further along is a delightful rocky area, with two rocks named after Queen Victoria and Prince Albert who visited Chatsworth. A 45-feet high pile of rocks has a waterfall dripping into a pond called 'The Strid' - named after the stretch of River Wharfe on the Devonshires' Bolton Abbey estate - crossed by a pretty rustic bridge.

Walking through the rockery we came across a coal hole. Horse-drawn carts brought coal from a neighbouring railway station, entering the garden and taking a track under the Cascade to the coal hole. From here, coal was taken in small wagons along an underground railway. Stepping into the coal hole, we walked through the eerie coal tunnel and emerged blinking in the sun.

In the 18th century the gardens were transformed by landscape architect Lancelot "Capability" Brown, with most ponds and parterres converted to lawns. An elegant centrepiece is the Emperor Fountain, constructed as the world's highest fountain in anticipation of a visit by Tsar Nicholas I of Russia. I reclined by the lake on a "Chaise Lawn" - a chaise lounge covered in fake turf.

Chatsworth offers plenty, including shops, cafes, a farmyard and adventure playground.

As we drove away I looked back to see sunlight glinting on the gold leaf of the west front window frames. It's a view I hope to see again soon.

INFORMATION

Chatsworth House is near Bakewell, Derbyshire.

It is open every day from 11am to 4.30pm (house) and 5pm (garden).

For more information call (01246) 565430 or visit chatsworth.org

Make Yourself Comfortable runs until October 23.