Oh, we do like to be beside the seaside... and not only during the warm, sunny summer months.

Visit coastal towns out of season and you get a wholly different kind of experience, allowing you to see the “real” resort without the crowds of tourists and day-trippers.

That’s what we found in a recent excursion to Scarborough, jewel of Yorkshire’s east coast but also a place rich in history and points of interest, no matter what the weather or time of year.

There’s a dramatic castle where you can learn about local and nationally-important history, reminders of more recent history, museums and the last resting place of one of our district’s literary heroines, as well as parks and the seafront.

Scarborough Castle is perched on dominating high cliffs between the resort’s north and south bays. We discovered that the site started life as an Iron Age fort and was later occupied by the Romans. It became a Viking settlement, and then a royal stronghold during medieval times, its walls constructed around 1136 during the reign of King Stephen, and Henry II later playing an important role with the building of a new keep.

Its thick stone walls have witnessed more than their fair share of warfare. There were two sieges by Parliamentary forces during the English Civil War, during one of which the Royalist garrison held out for 12 months, and much of the castle walls were dismantled.

During the First World War, the castle and surrounding town were bombarded by German warships. Nineteen people were killed, and there was damage to the castle keep and curtain walls.

However, there are still enough battlements and towers for young and old to enjoy a good ramble around, warming drinks are available in the English Heritage shop and if you are hardy, you can enjoy a picnic in the castle grounds.

Walking down into the harbour area, we found another reminder of how close conflict came to Scarborough during the First World War. It’s a Vickers 13-pounder gun from the wreck of the SS Hornsund, sunk by a torpedo a couple of miles out to sea in September 1917. The gun, a fascinating piece of living history, was recovered from 100ft underwater by members of Scarborough Sub Aqua Club and local fisherman during the 1980s, and lifted by RAF helicopter to its current location.

If you have the stamina, there is a Scarborough heritage trail that can be followed around the town. It has one location on the seafront close to the harbour at the ancient King Richard III restaurant and coffee shop, where the troubled monarch was reputed to have stayed during the Wars of the Roses.

Available from tourist information centres, there are actually two heritage trails to follow, one for the old town and another for the town, North Bay and South Cliff areas. Giving an insight into Scarborough’s colourful history and heritage, the old town trail starts from the famous Grand Hotel, takes in 22 blue heritage trail plaques and takes about an hour-and-a-half to complete.

There is much for lovers of the arts to enjoy in and around the town. We visited Scarborough Art Gallery, an Italianate villa in The Crescent, housing a permanent collection reflecting the town’s maritime heritage and occasional exhibitions over four floors.

The gallery has a nice little coffee lounge and a shop where you can find out more about some of the artists and pick up a postcard of your favourite piece.

Nearby is the Rotunda Museum, the William Smith Museum of Geology, which reopened two years ago following a complete redevelopment. The Rotunda is one of the country’s oldest purpose-built museums, dating back to 1829, and the only one whose eye-catching architectural design encompassed a new science – geology.

It has exhibits on local geology and archaeology, as well as an eclectic mix of artefacts including old scientific instruments. There’s a shop with a range of gifts, gemstones, fossils and minerals, and a selection of exclusive hand-crafted Whitby Jet jewellery.

We next headed to the grave of Anne Bronte – one of Haworth’s world-famous literary sisters – at St Mary’s Church in Castle Road.

The author of Agnes Grey and The Tenant Of Wildfell Hall died in lodgings on the site of the current Grand Hotel – there’s a blue plaque marking the place – on May 28, 1849. She was just 29 years old, although the gravestone erroneously says she was 28.

Anne had travelled to Scarborough with her sister Charlotte. She was suffering from consumption, and it was hoped that the sea air may help her recover. Sadly, it was not to be.

Younger members of the family will be enthralled by a look beneath the waves at Scarborough Sea Life and Marine Sanctuary, at Scalby Mills. Sea Dragons are the latest attraction, and there are also 150 species of fish, otters, seals and penguins, an underwater tunnel to allow you to get up close to the animals, and regular talks and feeding demonstrations.

As well as all this, Scarborough has parks to stroll around, the bracing seafront encompassing the two bays, winding streets and alleyways to explore, and countless pubs, cafes and restaurants in which to round off your day with a meal before heading back home.

Factfile - Scarborough Castle is open out of season from 10am to 6pm, Thursday to Monday and bank holidays.

- Scarborough Art Gallery and the Rotunda Museum are open Tuesday to Sunday from 10am to 5pm.

- Scarborough Sea Life and Marine Sanctuary is open seven days a week from 10am to 5pm.